Wednesday, April 29, 2009

New Army List

If I were to play the game again with the minitures I have, I think I would bring this:
  • 635 = Kroq-Gar
  • 84 = Skink Chief with Armor, Shield, and Battle standard
  • 540 = Cold One Calvary with Command
  • 206 = Saurus with Command
  • 83 = Unit A of 11 Skink Skirmishers with Brave
  • 83 = Unit B of 11 Skink Skirmishers with Brave
  • 166 = Unit C of 20 Skink Skirmishers with Brave and Javelins
  • 180 = 4 Jungle Swarm
  • 114 = 9 Chameleon Skinks with Stalker
  • 160 = 6 Terradons with Brave

Game Time

So I played my first Warhammer Fantasy game in forever. I finished pinning my Saurus Calvary and my Old One on Carnosaur. Here is my final list. I may have taken a few more points than I was supposed to but I went with what was in the computer at the store.
  • 573 = Kroq-Gar
  • 222 = 16 Saurus Warriors with Command
  • 180 = 24 Skink Skirmishers with Scouting and Brave
  • 131 = 20 Skinks in unit with brave
  • 580 = 14 Saurus Cavalry with Command and Sun Standard of Chotec
  • 141 = 9 Chameleons with Stalker
  • 185 = 5 Terradons with Brave
  • 59 = Skink Chief
  • 180 = 3 Jungle swarms
Lizardmen on the Move (being attacked by a giant cat! No Callie, No!):
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I played against Dwarves and the guy was really nice. Here are a few things I learned early on.
  • Dwarves have crossbow troops that can shoot 30 inches. On a 48 inch board, there is the possibility they can hit my troops at long range. I was close to having my Terradons on that side of the board but thankfully, someone showed me the error.
  • I took a unit of Skinks with out the skirmishing option and without the Kroxgors. First, I don't have Kroxgor models, so I couldn't add them to the unit. Second, because they were not skirmishers, just the unit, I couldn't charge through them. I lined them up in a single rank across the front of my other units and used them as a meat sheild. they tied up my units so the Dwarven player decided not to shooat them. The effect was my troops ended up in front of him untouched. However, they didn't arrive until turn 4.
  • The unit of skinks that I did take ended up standing and shooting at a charge. They lost and were overrun. Instead, I should have fled and regrouped to shoot at the dwarves again. I did this very effectivly with my Chamelons on the other side of the board.
  • Don't line up Saurse in the woods!
  • A Carnosaur with 14 Cavalry can take quite a bit of punishment.
  • Terradons can lock up shooters.
  • Swarms can eat up shots.
  • Board quarters are important.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Game Tomorrow

I am excited about my game tomorrow. I still need to pin my 8 cavalry to the old school cold ones. Hopefully, the pinning will get done tonight. I decided to split the cavalry into 2 units, each with command and a magic standard. I also dropped the Skink Priest. I just really don't want to have to deal with magic, though I understand the Lizardmen have really strong magic in the Slann mages. That will have to wait until I have a little more money.
  • Points = Unit
  • 635 = Kroq-Gar (Lord)
  • 206 = 16 Saurus with full command (Core)
  • 146 = 20 Skink Skirmishers with Brave (Core)
  • 138 = 26 normal Skinks with Brave (Core)
  • 180 = 4 Jungle Swarm
  • 266 = 6 Cavalry with Command (Core)
  • 25 = Huanchi Standard
  • 338 = 8 Cold One Cavalry with Command (Special)
  • 40 = Sun Standard of Chotec
  • 114 = 9 Chameleon Skinks with stalker (Special)
  • 160 = 5 Terradon Riders with Brave (Special)
Total = 2248 out of 2250 possible points.

My First Static Grass

I have never used static grass before. I like the effect but I never really got to the basing phase (see my previous post). I had already painted the bases with black and overbrushed with dark brown (FA's Dark Umber). Then I dry brushed with FA's Teddy Bear Tan, a much lighter brown. I liked the effect but it was still a little dark. So I finally busted out my static grass (I think I bought it 5 years ago). I used a brush to but straight Elmer's in the low parts of the base. I was able to do the 20 Saurus Warriors, 4 of 5 Terradon bases, and 2 Skink Priests. This is what I came up with and I love it.



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I still have the Calvary and the skinks to static grass but they will have to wait for next week.

Friday, April 24, 2009

Basing

I have never been good at basing. At first, I didn't know where to start, so I left it to the end. I have also never been good at deciding a model was done so I never was good at spraying them with varnish. Of all my many models, none have varnish. Therefore, none have bases either, because I was leaving that until the end. So now, I am basing, regardless if it is done. In fact, when I do my Tharn Ravagers, I think I will put the basing material down before I prime it!

So I decided to paint the bases I did last night with FA's Burnt Umber, a really dark brown. I think I did a cross between over brushing and bad painting. I wanted to leave the black in the crevasses, so I dipped my flat blade bush in the paint, ran it across the rim of the paint tray, then drug it across the surface. If the paint covered all the black or just hit the high points, I just let it do what it was going to do. It looks ok now, even if it is a little dark for the Jungles of Lusteria. I did this assembly line for 5 Terradon bases, 16 Saurus, 2 Skink Priests, and a Cold One.

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Thursday, April 23, 2009

Touching Up Terradons & More

I wanted to touch up my Terradons before next week's game so I dug out (and was actually able to find) my notes for how I painted them. I don't have step by step pictures but here is the process.
  • Base with a black wash or primer
  • Wash with Folk Art's Hauser Green Dark (I don't remember if I covered the wings too. Now, I wouldn't)
  • Dry brush the green areas with FA's Holly Leaf
  • Paint the wing membrane with FA's Tapioca tinted with FA's Hauser Green Light. It makes a light pus color. I did this in two coats. Now days, I might start with a wash of the light green and then highlight with the mix.
  • I lined in veins on the wings of FA's Medium Yellow.
  • Dry (very dry) brush wings and everything with FA's Hauser Green Light.

Knowing all that, here is the starter picture of what I will touch up on all of them:
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You can see the holes in the paint left by the old glue bases.

After touching them up, I decided to go ahead and sand the bases. I mixed Elmer's and a little water and painted it on. Then I dipped them in my basing material (sifted fine sand).
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With the glue already mixed up, I decided to touch up the basing material on the Saurus.
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There was also one Saurus Calvary that didn't have basing material so I covered it also. After touching the Cold One Calvary, I wanted to glue the riders to the their mounts. I simply used plastic glue and I may have to pin them later if they pop off. I None of this took too long, so I decided to mix up Elmers, water, and FA's Black paint. I started painting and it took a while. But here is what it looks like now.
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I meant to just sit down and do a short project but you know how that goes.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Game Next Week

One of the guys at the store has agreed to play me next week. He knows Lizardmen well and is a great teacher. So we will meet with 2250 points. This is what I came up with:
  • 635 pts = Kroq-Gar (Lord)
  • 100 = Skink Priest lvl 2 (Hero)
  • 206 = 16 Saurus with full command (Core)
  • 146 = 20 Skink Skirmishers with Brave (Core)
  • 128 = 24 normal skinks with Brave (Core)
  • 180 = 4 Jungle Swarm
  • 540 = 14 Cold One Cavalry with Command (Core due to Kroq-Gar)
  • 40 = Sun Standard of Chotec
  • 114 = 9 Chameleon Skinks with stalker (Special)
  • 160 = 5 Terradon Riders with Brave (Special)
and the grand total is 2249. This is open to revision and any advice would be helpful.

Another Short Project

Ok, so the gluing and pinning of the old Terradons didn't take as long as I thought. I would say less than an hour. I did go ahead and use the Dremal tool on all 4 of the underbellys and again, the remaining plastic melted to the drill bit. However, I was able to remove it more quickly (with a file and a pair of clippers) and it sped up the process. In the pictures below, you can make out the pins in the flying bases. Again, I didn't glue the end that goes in the bases so they are removable for transport.

Terradons re-pinned Terradons with Army see through

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

A Short Project

Last week, the guys at the store showed me how to make the flying bases of Terradons better. I did the first one in the blog here. I really just wanted a short, brainless project while I watch the new episode of Deadliest Catch.

It took no time at all to cut the flying bases from the Terradons. I used super glue and it has held great, even 2 years later. Where I was less than careful with it and it pooled out, I now have bare metal showing. I used the pin vice again to drill out the clear post. 4 of them with a short pizza break took about 1 hour. I would guess actual time was 30 minutes but my fingers kept needing a break. I will dremal the metal Terradons in the next few days and get the pins glued in. Estimated time: 1.5 hours.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Looking at the Lizardmen Army

Well, there are several things I need to do for this army (without buying anything).
The Saurus bases still need to be painted and the movement tray needs to be based. I really want to put the rare earth magnets on the models and the metal plate on the move tray but this is a strictly no $$$ time.
Saurus 2


The Saurus Calvary needs about 4-5 hours of painting and then glue them to their cold ones
Saurus Calvery Full

I would like to re-base the 4 other Terradons like I did with the broken one here
Terradons and the walking wounded

The Salamander needs painting.
Salamander & Swarms

The Carnosaur Old One needs about an hour more paint and then be pinned. I would like to base the Carnosaur with a more modeled base but I am honestly a little intimidated and not sure where to begin. I will probably take him up to the shop and get the guys to help me get started.
I have an old school Stegadon that still needs assembly and paint. Eventually, the entire army needs static grass on the bases.

I have a busy week at school so none of this will get done but maybe now I can break it into smaller pieces. (see the new list on the side bar: Pieces of Projects)

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Alternate Skink Paint Scheme

Warning: I didn't paint this. This pic is by Xtolaze at Lustria Online. I think the skinks are beautiful. There are several more at this page.


Now I totally want to dig out my paints!

Lizardmen Army

So, the other night, I went to my local game store and one of the guys was playing Lizardmen in a Warhammer Fantasy match. I haven't played WHF in about 2 years so I hadn't seen the new models or the new army book (check out the Games Workshop Lizardmen page for more info). The new minis are great, especially the new stegadon. So I came home and started digging mine out. I totaled it up and the bare minimum is 2,006 points. Here's the whole army.


And here are the pieces.
16 Saurus
Saurus

4 Swarms of Jungle Reptiles, a flaming lizard with crew (forgot the name right now), and a skink priest.
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T-Rex - rider coming soon. This is probably my favorite model I have painted.
T-Rex

24 Skinks with blowpipes, 24 skinks with spears, and 14 Cold Ones (riders coming soon).
Skinks and Cold Ones

5 old school terradons and the walking wounded. The terradon on the far right is the one I pinned in the last post.
Terradons and the walking wounded

9 chameleons.
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I have some great stuff here. Now I just need to finish the riders and base the stuff. I also have an old school stegadon that needs building.

Friday, April 17, 2009

Old Terradon

I also have a Warhammer Fantasy Army of Lizardmen. I will post pictures of them later. However, they have had a rough life and several of the pieces have broken, especially the stinking little flying bases (grumble, grumble, grumble). This particular model broke with the peg still in the Terradon's underbelly.
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So I finally asked at my local gaming store, Albright's how to fix them and the guys clued me in. I filed off the rest of the peg to give myself a flat surface. I took a pin vise (rather than my Dremal tool) and drilled a whole down into the clear support peg, the exact diameter of the pin I would use. I made sure the well was deep, as I do not intend to glue the pin in.
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Next, I took my Dremal tool and drilled into the peg still in the underbelly. Turns out, the guys were right to tell me to use a pin vise on the plastic. The clear plastic melted to the drill. I had to pry the stuff off. Once the plastic was out of the underbelly, I could use my Dremal to sink a nice whole. I measured and cut the pin and super glued it in.


The idea here is to leave the base free from the model. The pin is long enough that it will stay in during games but you can also remove the base for traveling. I have more Terradons to convert later but for now, they are still together.

Finished Building the Druids

As I mentioned before, I didn't realize that half of the Druids are left-handed so the 3 in front still do not have their voulges. However, they have been given their metal washer base for stabilization.
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More super-glue, green stuff, and pinning later and this is what you get.
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Paint Testing for the Tharn Ravagers

I wasn't sure how I wanted to paint these guys. I really like the pictures from Privateer Press.



They are brown but the tones are more gray than anything else. I had no idea how to get that color and I don't purchase the P3 paints (Privateers line of paints). They seem to be great paints but they are pricey. I have used Folk Art Paints (you can get them at any hobby store and perhaps even Wal-Mart) and I like them, especially their artist pigments. They have gold caps rather than white and the pigment is more highly concentrated.

So I pulled out every brown that I had, which wasn't many, and did a test page. Load your brush up and drag it across the page. This shows the range of colors you can get from one paint. Important to remember - label the paints on the test page. I thought I would remember which was which but as I got interested in mixing the colors, I quickly forgot how I got to each color.


The first stripe is Folk Art's (FA) Burnt Umber #462. The second is FA Raw Sienna #452 and the third is FA Teddy Bear Tan #419. In person, the second tinges to the orange side and the third was just too light. The fourth stripe is mislabeled but (I think) it is the Teddy Bear Tan with a drop of Games Workshop Brown Ink. See what I mean about labeling your stuff right away? Apparently, GW is no longer make the ink so it may be what they are now calling washes.

I finally settled on the first stripe and just adding FA Tapioca #903. It is not a pure white, so you avoid some of the chalkiness in the final color. The mid-tone highlight will be 1:1 Burnt Umber to Tapioca. The top highlight will be about 1:2 or 1:3. I can also darken the Burnt Umber if I need to with Black or the GW Brown Ink.

I am still saving up money to buy the last three modes I need so no painting yet.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Older Cirlce stuff I have painted

While I am at it, here is the boxed Circle Warpack I painted in the past. In the future, I may add in the paints I used on the models.

Here is Kaya without a face or highlights.
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Here are several pics of my Warpwolf. I really like him.
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There are also 2 Argus in the pack. However, I apparently only photographed one. I didn't like these models as much.
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Here is the second Argus, now that I have taken pictures of him.
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Label Cloud

Mini's Past