Basing

There are a lot of great instructions out there for basing your minis.  Just a few links to get you going:

One of my flying bases

Santa Cruz

Just the Bases

Hand Cannon Online Part 1 and Part 2

Recently, I started painting again and it had been a while.  Okay, it had been about a year and a half.  It had been so long, that I got all of my basing steps out of order and it caused me extra work.  So I am writing myself a blog for the steps I like to follow.  Read along if you like =)

Step 1: Don't get too excited!  I know you just got that new ______ but follow the steps!  It will save you headaches later.

Step 2: Wash the mini in soap, water, and toothbrush.  I have never actually done this step but I want to start.  The last models came with a lot of mold release still on them.

Product Link

Step 3: Clean the mold lines, flashing, and vents.

Step 4: Crimp the slots to hold tight in the slota-bases.  Shave down the words on the slots if needed.

Step 5: Super Glue the mini into the slot and let it dry.  I really like the Loctite Superglue Gel.  It stays where I want it and has a tight, fast bond.

*If the base is large or the extra basing detail is large, reverse steps 6 & 7.  Note the Tharn Ravager below.  It actually worked better to glue the cork first but it was a pain painting the white glue around more pieces.

Step 6: Paint white glue onto the base.  Add a drop or two of water to get it to flow around the feet.  Dip the base with glue into the fine sand and knock off the extra.  While it is still moist, use your thumb to clean up the ring of the base.

Small Slate Chips from Santa Cruz

Step 7: Again, while it is still moist, move some of the sand out of the way and place a drop of Superglue Gel onto the base.  Place several small stones/cork/slate onto the base.  I do this step after the white glue because it makes it easier to paint the white glue on.

Step 8: Once dry, paint the base with a mix of [5 parts white glue / 5 parts black paint / 2-3 parts water].  The idea is to lock the sand down and let the black pigment sink into the crevices.  The black doesn't have to cover because in a moment we will spray paint it.  But first...

Step 9: Glue the metal washer onto the base.  I use Gorillla Glue for this application, as explained in another post.  If needed, shave down the extra metal from the slot with a Dremal sander so it doesn't 'rock' when on the washer.  I like adding the metal washer because I feel like it adds a little weight to the miniature and makes it less top heavy.  Do this after dipping it in the sand.  Otherwise, trapped sand will continually sneak out.  *Note: If you are going to magnetize the base to something like a movement try, the washer is out.

Cork with Sand

Step 10: Spray paint with flat black paint.  I prefer Krylon because it is the flattest I have found and it has good coverage.  It is best to have disposable gloves on (especially if you have to go to work later) but I have used a plastic bag as a glove before too.  Light layers and don't get it too thick.  Also, turn your spray can upside down at the end and spray until the gas comes out clear to clean the nozzle.

Step 11: Dry brush the base (and anything on the mini that needs dry brushing) first so your feet don't get dusty later.

Step 12: Don't get in a rush.  Wait to glue the static grass on after the clear coat.  Otherwise, static grass will find it's way into every nook and cranny of the mini.

This is my current process, broken down into the gory details.  What do you like?  What do you do differently?

Gorilla Glue

I like gluing washers to the bases of my mini's.  It makes them just a little weightier and a little less likely to tip over.  The best stuff I have found for this is Gorilla Glue.  When it dries, it forms a tough bond.  The best part is that the glue is somewhat rubbery.  This means that dropped minis don't lose their bases.  This stuff can take a bounce.  I have been using the standard stuff that dries a light brownish yellow.  I just bought the stuff that dries white and I will let you know how that turns out.

Two things about Gorilla Glue.
1.  It works best when under pressure.  What that means is you have to be able to clamp it and leave it.

2. It foams as it activates and dries.  This produces a good bond, even on uneven surfaces but it leaves some strange results.  It is easy to trim off of a base or file down.  I have had problems using it in tight detail places as you can't quiet get your files and knives down into them to clear out the small stuff.

I don't recommend it on arms other places where it might foam onto your details but for big flat surfaces, it is the toughest stuff I have found.