Old Terradon

I also have a Warhammer Fantasy Army of Lizardmen. I will post pictures of them later. However, they have had a rough life and several of the pieces have broken, especially the stinking little flying bases (grumble, grumble, grumble). This particular model broke with the peg still in the Terradon's underbelly.

So I finally asked at my local gaming store, Albright's how to fix them and the guys clued me in. I filed off the rest of the peg to give myself a flat surface. I took a pin vise (rather than my Dremal tool) and drilled a whole down into the clear support peg, the exact diameter of the pin I would use. I made sure the well was deep, as I do not intend to glue the pin in.




Next, I took my Dremal tool and drilled into the peg still in the underbelly. Turns out, the guys were right to tell me to use a pin vise on the plastic. The clear plastic melted to the drill. I had to pry the stuff off. Once the plastic was out of the underbelly, I could use my Dremal to sink a nice whole. I measured and cut the pin and super glued it in.








The idea here is to leave the base free from the model. The pin is long enough that it will stay in during games but you can also remove the base for traveling. I have more Terradons to convert later but for now, they are still together.

Finished Building the Druids

As I mentioned before, I didn't realize that half of the Druids are left-handed so the 3 in front still do not have their voulges. However, they have been given their metal washer base for stabilization.

More super-glue, green stuff, and pinning later and this is what you get.

Paint Testing for the Tharn Ravagers

I wasn't sure how I wanted to paint these guys. I really like the pictures from Privateer Press.



They are brown but the tones are more gray than anything else. I had no idea how to get that color and I don't purchase the P3 paints (Privateers line of paints). They seem to be great paints but they are pricey. I have used Folk Art Paints (you can get them at any hobby store and perhaps even Wal-Mart) and I like them, especially their artist pigments. They have gold caps rather than white and the pigment is more highly concentrated.

So I pulled out every brown that I had, which wasn't many, and did a test page. Load your brush up and drag it across the page. This shows the range of colors you can get from one paint. Important to remember - label the paints on the test page. I thought I would remember which was which but as I got interested in mixing the colors, I quickly forgot how I got to each color.


The first stripe is Folk Art's (FA) Burnt Umber #462. The second is FA Raw Sienna #452 and the third is FA Teddy Bear Tan #419. In person, the second tinges to the orange side and the third was just too light. The fourth stripe is mislabeled but (I think) it is the Teddy Bear Tan with a drop of Games Workshop Brown Ink. See what I mean about labeling your stuff right away? Apparently, GW is no longer make the ink so it may be what they are now calling washes.

I finally settled on the first stripe and just adding FA Tapioca #903. It is not a pure white, so you avoid some of the chalkiness in the final color. The mid-tone highlight will be 1:1 Burnt Umber to Tapioca. The top highlight will be about 1:2 or 1:3. I can also darken the Burnt Umber if I need to with Black or the GW Brown Ink.

I am still saving up money to buy the last three modes I need so no painting yet.

Older Cirlce stuff I have painted

While I am at it, here is the boxed Circle Warpack I painted in the past. In the future, I may add in the paints I used on the models.

Here is Kaya without a face or highlights.

Here are several pics of my Warpwolf. I really like him.

There are also 2 Argus in the pack. However, I apparently only photographed one. I didn't like these models as much.

Here is the second Argus, now that I have taken pictures of him.