Magnet Fun!

My magnets finally came yesterday! Size = 0.250" diameter (6.4mm) and 0.063" thick (1.6mm).

I played around with them for a while and then started putting them on my minis. You can't see it from the pic but the magnet is thinner than the recess of the base. When they are on the movement try with the metal in it, the magnet will still pull but it will not actually touch the metal. I had heard that if these magnets stay in constant contact with metal, they will lose some of their pulling force. I'm not sure if that's the case, but why risk it?

This is the little guy hanging from my file cabinet.

Then I assembly lined them. I think it took a total of 5 minutes to glue them in.

I ran out to Lowes and spent about $10 for movement try supplies. Here is a self-adhesive tile ($0.36 each) and the spru from some Tau. Not pictured is the sheet of galvanized steel I picked up in the air conditioning and heating area ($7.95 for 24" x 36").

Thankfully, I already had Tin Snips (scissors for metal) and gray spray paint primer that works on metal. I learned how to make these from my friend Bays at Albright's game store in Lexington. He suggested using the tiles with the smooth surface down so they slide easily across the game surface.

1. I cut off pieces of the spru and cleaned it up.
2. I lined up my Saurus the way I would in a game, 5 wide and 3 ranks deep with 1 left in the back.
3. I bracket the rank and file with the spru and measured. It came out to just a hair under 13.5 mm wide and 10.5 mm deep.
4. I carefully scored the self-adhesive vinyl tile with my X-Acto (hobby knife) and broke it off at the score lines.
5. Next, wearing leather gloves, I used my Tin Snips to cut the steel sheet the same size. The steel can cut the crap out of you! IMPORTANT - next time I will cut the steel sheet smaller than the vinyl to prevent rough edges from sticking out. I also found it easier to cut out the rough out the shape from the big sheet, then fine tune it once the piece was smaller.
6. I pulled off the backing to the self-adhesive tile and stuck the metal down to it. With good contact, there is no need to add more glue.

 7. Next, I started gluing down the spru.
 8. I only added 3 sides so it would be easier to slide the casualties out the back.

9. I took the movement tray to the kitchen and soaped it to remove the oils from my hands and dried it thoroughly.

10. Then I took my movement tray out side and primed it. This primer is water-based (as opposed to oil) and says it works on plastic and metal. Hopefully, it will be a nice surface to work with.

This is where I am at so far. I am letting the primer dry and now I have to get started on writing papers.